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  • Multi Language Menu Options: English, Spanish, French, Japanese, Chinese, Portuguese, German


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How to Verify an Expert's Credentials

Experts, sad to say, are not always honest about their credentials, as several recent news items confirm. Knowing how to verify the background of an expert - whether yours or your opponent's - could prove critical to your case.

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In perhaps the most dramatic recent example, a New Orleans federal judge threw out a jury verdict in favor of pharmaceutical giant Merck & Co. after a cardiologist who testified for the defense in a Vioxx trial was found to have misrepresented his credentials.

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A few weeks earlier in California, a man who fraudulently passed himself off as a computer forensics expert in two cases pleaded guilty to federal perjury charges. In Toronto, a psychiatrist had his license suspended after lying about his credentials while serving as an expert witness in two trials.

These cases illustrate why it is crucial for trial lawyers to confirm that an expert is all he claims to be. Vetting an expert's credentials should be a key step in your trial preparation.

Major legal research services provide many tools for checking an expert's background, from public records databases to deposition banks. But these major services can be expensive to use and still leave bases uncovered.

At the same time, the Web harbors a variety of resources and tools that contain potentially valuable information but that many lawyers overlook in researching an expert's background.

Yes, we all now know to check Google, but this article looks at some of the lesser-known - and mostly free - research tools you may be bypassing. Of course, these Web tools are neither foolproof nor exhaustive. No Web site can substitute for using a reputable expert-search service.

BLOGS: WORDS CAN HAUNT YOU

The old adage, "What you say may come back to haunt you," has never been more true. With millions of people posting to blogs and participating in Internet discussion groups, we are creating permanent records of our words and thoughts - like it or not.

In light of this, the blogosphere should be among your first stops in researching an expert's background. Does the expert maintain a blog? If so, has he said anything there you might regret. Has he posted comments to others' blogs. Have others written about him, positively or negatively, on their own blogs?

The best tool for searching blogs is Google Blog Search. Like Google's Web search, it is comprehensive and up to date. You can sort results by date or relevance, and you can search blogs in multiple languages.

A close second for searching blogs is Clusty. Clusty is not a search engine - it does not crawl or index the Web. Rather, it is a metasearch tool that calls on other blog search engines, extracts the relevant information, and then organizes the results into a hierarchical folder structure - which it calls "clusters." With this unique approach, it provides results that are both comprehensive and usefully organized.

Another source of potentially damaging comments by or about an expert is the Internet's many news groups and discussion lists. To find postings someone made to one of these, search Google Groups. It hosts a variety of current groups as well as an archive of more than 750 million Usenet postings dating back to 1985.

As podcasts become more popular, they also should be included in a background search. Perhaps the person you are researching said something pertinent in a podcast or was the subject of someone else's podcast comment. Several sites claim to search podcasts, but most of these actually search only the accompanying text - the title, description, author and any metadata - but not the audio file.

A handful of tools now enable you to search the full spoken text of podcasts. One of the best is Podzinger. It is based on speech-recognition technology developed for U.S. intelligence to monitor foreign television and radio broadcasts. It uses this technology to create a textual index of the audio data in any MP3 or WAV file, converting the spoken words into searchable text.

NETWORKING SITES

Where professionals once networked at cocktail parties and civic events, today you are more likely to find them connecting through any of a number of networking Web sites. The most popular at the moment is LinkedIn where members post information about their careers and their connections and share mutual recommendations. If your expert is listed on LinkedIn, read his profile carefully. How does his listing compare with what he has provided to you? Also, look for references from others and examine his network of connections for any that might help either verify or call into question his background.

Other business networking sites include Ziggs, Ryze, and Orkut. Of course, be sure also to check personal networking sites such as MySpace and Facebook.

CORPORATE RECORDS

Anyone researching a publicly traded company would know to check the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission's EDGAR database. But fewer think to search EDGAR for information about individuals, even though it may contain a wealth of information. Corporate filings can provide information on an individual's business affiliations, employment arrangements, investments, and more. Even an individual's education and employment history can sometimes be tracked through EDGAR.

If the expert works in the securities industry, two databases worth checking are NASD BrokerCheck which provides information on the professional backgrounds of current and former NASD-registered securities firms and brokers, and the National Futures Association's Background Affiliation Status Information Center (BASIC) which does much the same for registered futures dealers.

HISTORICAL WEB

Web sites change over time. If your expert has a Web site, what it says today may differ from what it said five years ago. The best way to track historical changes in someone's Web site is through the Internet Archive's Wayback Machine at archive.org. Here, you can find an archive that captures historical snapshots of sites. While not exhaustive, it is likely to have at least some pages showing earlier versions of a site.

PUBLIC RECORDS

Any number of major research systems sell access to public records. These include LexisNexis, Westlaw, ChoicePoint, and Accurint. But many public records are now available online for little or no cost. A variety of Web sites help direct you to these online sources of public records.

One of the best is Search Systems with links to nearly 40,000 sources of public records on the Web. It includes links to sources throughout the world, although the greatest number of sources are in the U.S. and Canada. Not all sites listed are free, but the site clearly marks those that are not. Among the listings: professional license registrations, corporate records, marriage notices, UCC filings, deed registries, birth and death records, lobbyist listings, physician disciplinary proceedings, and much more.

Other sites that provide directories of public records and information include:

Virtual Gumshoe at virtualgumshoe.com: A good collection of Web resources for public records research. Public Records Online Directory at http://publicrecords.netronline.com [http://publicrecords.netronline.com:]: Links to state and municipal sites, with an emphasis on real estate, tax and vital records sources. Merlin Information Sources at merlindata.com/industrylinks.html: Links to resources for finding public records and public information. Black Book Online at blackbookonline.info: A free public records site targeted at private investigators, skip tracers, government investigators and others. Good collection of links and descriptions. BRB Publications at brbpub.com: provides a fairly comprehensive, state-by-state list of free public records sites, as well as an index of national sites and another for Canada and U.S. territories.
SOCIAL SECURITY NUMBERS

Due to privacy concerns, it is difficult to find social security numbers on the Web these days. But you can easily verify that a number is valid and belongs to a living person. Enter a number in The SSN Validator at and it will tell you whether the number has been issued, in which state it was issued, when it was issued, and whether any death claims exist against the number. It will not tell you the identity of the holder of the number.

PROFESSIONAL CREDENTIALS

To check a medical doctor's license, DocFinder provides a database of license information for participating states. For states not included in the DocFinder database, the site provides links to their own license look-up sites.

Most states now have sites for verifying a lawyer's bar admission. You can find these through the state government Web site. A new site, Avvo rates lawyers based on publicly available information and compiles client reviews and disciplinary sanctions.

DOCKETS

Is your expert a party to pending litigation? To find out in federal court, check the U.S. Party/Case Index. This is a national index of parties and cases for U.S. district, bankruptcy and appellate courts. It is updated nightly. Use of it requires a PACER account. Not all federal courts participate, but the site includes a list of those that do not.

A service with much the same information that requires no account is Justia's Federal District Court Filings & Dockets. This free, searchable resource contains information on recently filed U.S. district court civil cases. The database includes cases filed since Jan. 1, 2006 and can be searched by party name, court, and type of case.

Another low-cost option for searching federal court dockets is Who's Suing Whom. A private translation and interpretation services firm offers this tool for searching patent, trademark or copyright cases pending in federal courts. Search by case type and party name, court, state or date to find basic case information. There is a charge to retrieve full-text court dockets.

VITAL RECORDS

Vital records - birth, death and marriage certificates and divorce decrees - are increasingly available free online through state and local government sources. Vital Records Information at vitalrec.com tells where to find them anywhere in the U.S. It lists sources for each state, territory and county, and most cities and towns, along with contact, fee and ordering information. For records outside the U.S., the site lists links to foreign vital records sites. This straightforward site is designed with a nod towards genealogy, but it is one many lawyers are sure to find useful.

EXPERT WITNESS RULINGS

The Daubert Tracker is a Web site developed specifically to help lawyers track cases involving the admissibility of expert testimony and, in particular, find out how specific experts fared in the courts. Its central feature is a database of all reported cases under Daubert and its progeny, trial and appellate, backed up when available by full-text briefs, transcripts and docket entries. Part of what makes the site unique is that it links cases to experts. Even if the expert is not named in the court decision, the site's editors track down the expert's identity.

A year subscription is 5 or you can purchase a two-hour session for or a half-hour for . For free, you can search the site's collection of more than 10,000 briefs and other supporting documents from both appellate and trial courts relating to expert witness testimony. If you find a document you are interested in, you can also view the first 10 percent of it free. If you decide you want to purchase the complete document, the cost is for non-subscribers and .50 for subscribers.

WRITINGS

In vetting an expert, it is important to confirm authorship of listed works as well as to search for any unlisted works that could be relevant or embarrassing. Two essential resources to check for published works are the Library of Congress Online Catalog at and the records of the U.S. Copyright Office. Of course, it also makes sense to check Amazon.com.

An increasingly popular resource for scholarly publications is the Social Science Research Network. This international collaborative is home to scholarly research covering more than 400 subject areas. It contains abstracts of more than 150,000 working papers and the full text of well over 100,000 published papers. This makes SSRN an essential source for researching an expert's published papers.

Another useful source is ISI HighlyCited.com This site provides profiles and bibliographic information for the most highly cited researchers in 21 broad subject categories. For listed individuals, the site provides biographical information - including education, faculty and professional posts, memberships and offices, current research interests and personal Web sites - as well as a full listing of publications, including journal articles, books, and conference proceedings.

OTHER RESOURCES

The U.S. government maintains any number of databases that could be relevant to vetting an expert, depending on his field of expertise. One often worth checking is the Excluded Parties List System. It provides information on individuals and companies that are excluded from receiving federal contracts and federal financial assistance.

When it comes to checking someone's background, more is better. The more sources you use, the more complete your search. The free and low-cost resources described here provide useful supplements to more expensive research services.

How to Verify an Expert's Credentials
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Nov 07, 2011 05:52:39

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  • Resolution:1680 x 1050pixel
  • DVD equipment: engine for slot-loading DVD player
  • Support Disc format: DVD/VCD/CD/SVCD/CD-R/CD-RW/DVD-R/DVD-RW, DVCD/MP3/MP4/JPEG/DIVX
  • Multi Language Menu Options: English, Spanish, French, Japanese, Chinese, Portuguese, German


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Use Reference CDs to Create Better Mixes for Your Home Recordings

What's the problem?

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Anyone who's done any home recording, especially multi-tracking any more than a couple of tracks, will know that it's not easy to get a professional-sounding result. No matter which Audio Software you use, such as LogicAudio or Cubase, you will have the same problem trying to make your mixes sound as good as commercial recordings. Of course, you will never be able to get the same results in your home studio, unless you've spent so much money that your house is starting to resemble George Lucas' Skywalker Sound setup! You simply won't have the necessary equipment, and more importantly you won't have the right sounding room.

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There are many people who will tell you that you need the right monitor speakers to get a decent mix. It's not bad advice - you'll get better results with better gear - but it's not complete advice. Many other people will tell you it's all down to your ears, and that an expert engineer will be able to get a great mix with any equipment, in any environment. Again, this is quite often true, but it's also largely irrelevant. You're almost certainly stuck with your own ears, listening to your own equipment, in your own room.

Most people have an idea how a good mix should sound, based on listening to professional recordings. What tends to happen is that when you mix, you make the track sound like you remember it should sound, based on what you've heard elsewhere. Of course, when you listen to it on your home hi-fi, or in the car, or on your iPod, it doesn't quite sound right.

So, given that state of affairs, what can you do?

The solution

I've made quite a few recordings in my time, and I do a lot of multi-tracking, often using as many as 20 individual tracks. That takes a bit of sorting out, I can tell you! The best method I've ever found for getting a good mix is a simple A-B comparison with a commercial recording. It's really easy. The details will vary between different audio software tools, but the idea is the same. You can probably do it with hardware mixers too, but I haven't had any experience of that.

The method works on the principle that if you make your recording sound like a commercial recording in your studio, on whatever equipment you've got, then it should sound OK on any system. Purists will argue, probably correctly, that this doesn't always hold true, but at least you're comparing apples with apples.

I'll assume you've recorded all your tracks, and have done a "rough" mix, that sounds OK... ish. So we move on to...

How to do it

The first thing you do is select a commercial recording that has two vital characteristics: 1) it's in a very similar style to your track, and 2) you actually link the sound of the recording. If you don't like the sound, why are you trying to reproduce it?

Next, you record the reference track onto a couple of spare tracks on your recording.

Now you need a simple way to A-B the commercial recording with your mix. In Cubase, I simply MUTE the reference track, and then use the SOLO button on that track to flip between the two.

Depending on the structure of your mix and the reference track, you may need to cut 'n' paste the reference track around a bit, so that the quieter and louder bits line up with yours.

Lastly, set up a loop, or loops if necessary, and hit "Play". Then just click the "Solo" button on, off, on, off, over and over again, and listen, really listen, to the differences between your mix, and the reference mix. Check the overall bass and treble levels, and concentrate on getting the actual instruments, and especially the vocals, to the right levels. You'll probably need to tweak the EQs quite a bit too - but that's another article!

Once you've got everything matching, you'll be amazed how much better your mix sounds.

Use Reference CDs to Create Better Mixes for Your Home Recordings
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Basic Golf Tips for Solid Driver Shots

Many golfers are intimidated by driver shots and in an effort to "drive for show" lose focus of driver shot fundamentals forgetting to simply let the driver do the work for them. Remember, it is much, much better to hit a straight 200 yard drive into the fairway than a 300 slice into the woods.
With that said, here are a few basic golf tips to setup properly for driver shots which will result in both more accuracy and longer distance.

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• Ball position golf basics - Though you should hit downward on the ball to hit crisp iron shots, the driver shot should ascend with a goal to make contact with the ball as the driver club head moves upward. To promote this ascending swing, the ball must be placed forward in the stance. A good driver basic golf tip is that the ball is aligned with the heel of the left foot (approximately three balls left of center for right handers).

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• Posture and stance golf basics - Take a slightly wider than shoulder-width stance and tilt from hips until spine/back angle is approximately 30 degrees from straight position.

• Backswing golf basics - When making backswing, large muscles of torso should wind up like a spring as you turn against right knee. "Lock" right knee in place at same angle as address.

• Downswing golf basics - To start downswing, shift weight to left, triggering chain reaction of hips, chest, arms and club all pulling behind the ball. At impact, try to keep the head behind the ball as this helps maintain your swing plane and promotes ascending swing arc through ball contact. It is especially important to keep your left arm straight from impact through release and avoid the dreaded left elbow breakdown (or "chicken wing") which causes a host of errant shots.

A great practice drill for driver shots is the "whoosh" drill which can be practiced on the range or between shots on the course. Here are basic golf tips to execute the whoosh drill:

1. Flip driver upside down and grip shaft just above club head.
2. Make normal swing with driver and listen for "whoosh" sound from shaft on the downswing.
3. The whoosh sound should be heard after "impact" resulting from proper extension and acceleration through ball.
4. Practice the drill until whoosh sound is heard after point of impact. Carry over this sensation to full swing for more distance with driver shots.

Basic Golf Tips for Solid Driver Shots
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5 Simple Effective Ways to Get Rid of Popups on Your Computer

In this article I will be discussing how to get rid of popups easily on your computer.

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Using my PC is usually a productive, fun and efficient way to complete work tasks or play games. However, every now and then my computer becomes infected with spyware specifically popups.

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I could be innocently surfing the Internet then all of a sudden my screen becomes plastered with a never ending series of popups that sometimes causes my Internet browser or pc to crash. I came up with 5 easy steps someone with the same problem can follow to get rid of pop ups on their computer.

1.) Recognize the problem. - You have to distinguish between regular advertising popups and malicious popups. If you visit a legitimate website (I.E. Amazon.com) you may see the odd popup on your monitor with an promotional offer inside. These ones are nothing to worry about as they are normal across the web. On the flip side if you visit a particular a website then all of a sudden a popup after another are generated then you should know your PC is infected with spyware. Popups are simply a symptom of spyware.

2.) Clear Browser Cache & Cookies After you recognize you have a spyware problem I recommend that you clear the cache and cookies of your Internet browser. (I.E. Firefox, Internet Explorer, Opera). Spyware is usually triggered because a malicious website you may have visited in the past planted a cookie on your computer that transmits information from your pc back to the original source.

3.)Scan for virusesAfter performing step 2 and clearing the cache of your Internet browser you should now do complete scan of your PC for viruses that may have been planted by a malicious website. Viruses should not be confused with spyware, they are a separate issue.

4.)Download & Use antispyware SoftwareOnce you complete the scan of your PC for viruses with your favorite anti-virus solution you should now get your hands on what's called a spyware & adware removal software program. The spyware & adware software program is used to scan your PC for bugs that can be used to transport private information about your Internet usage and personal data to a third party source without you knowing.

5.)Configure Internet BrowserOnce you have downloaded a reputable spyware removal program and used it to remove spyware and adware from your PC you then have the option of configuring your Internet browser to automatically stop popups from being triggered on your computer. You can consult the help files of your favorite Internet browser on how to do this.

In conclusion you should let the problems of spyware and popups get you down. This problem affects everyone who uses a PC. All you have to worry about is how to deal with the problem easily, effectively once it happens.

5 Simple Effective Ways to Get Rid of Popups on Your Computer
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Do Muscle Imbalances Cause Compensatory Movement Patterns or Visa-versa?

In no specific order, their answers are as follows:

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Dr. Kwame Brown:

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"Well, John this seems like a good question to ask, but I am not sure that it is an answerable one. This phenomenon could very easily be opposite for different cases. I can easily imagine someone starting out with a bad habit, like slouching, which can cause muscle imbalances over a long period of time, and this resulting in an alteration of motor patterns. However, I can also imagine very easily someone starting out with a muscle imbalance stemming from an injury or some sort of congenital problem, which would result in an alteration of motor patterns. What we are really talking about here, most likely, is something that becomes a cycle. Each can be arrived at as an effect of the other, or serve as a cause. This is one of the phenomena that make the job of the physician, therapist, or trainer very difficult.

Unfortunately, it is often impossible to discern a cause and effect relationship here. Anyone who does is just guessing, many times just to give themselves a start point from which to launch a training program (or, unfortunately, to make themselves seem like an expert). We can, however, learn a lot by talking to someone about their childhood experiences (just a hint for all you young trainers and therapists out there)."

Rick Karboviak:

"This might be a 'chicken or the egg' question. Take a female HS athlete for instance: does poor posture throughout a school day cause a compensatory movement pattern while in basketball practice, and does a muscle imbalance become that as a result of the compensation in her movement? Or was there just an imbalance to begin with? Who knows. My feeling is that daily movement patterns and habits can influence other mechanics of the competitive sports nature. A poor posture whether in work or school can cause a lot of things to go wrong in the chain of movement. I feel since we have such various daily movement patterns and habits of a light intensity nature, we can develop larger imbalances and notice them when we are called upon to higher intensity exercise & movements. We are simply taking an organism that has been conditioned to do as little as possible (since we have such great things as computers and such do to our work for us it seems), and then call on a large demand to it through a sports activity or high intensity exercise.

So, I think muscle imbalances are caused by compensatory movement patterns, due to the nature of the society we live in. We might be doing too much light intensity work or hardly any work at all, and then all these imbalances show up because we simply don't have the manual labor strength for higher demand tasks, as we once had as a society."

Chaney Weiner:

"Muscle imbalances and compensatory movement patterns are intertwined with each other. If one has a muscle imbalanced(however it may have been caused) there is a pretty good chance that a compensatory movement pattern will result. On the flip-side if someone always compensates in a particular movement it is likely a muscle imbalance will occur. What it ultimately boils down to, in general, is that the nervous system is the command center. The muscles are a slave to the brain. Practicing proper moving patterns with as little compensation as possible, even if the range of motion is not to it's fullest is a good progression to start with in dealing with muscle imbalances."

John Izzo:

"Without reading the others' responses, I will say that compensatory movement patters that are fostered from young ages facilitate muscle imbalances. As humans grow older, research has shown that we lose flexibility. I don't believe that flexibility just goes **poof** and goes away one day. I believe that taken the actions that we participate in everyday contribute to faulty movement patterns seen by many therapists daily. I think that faulty movement patterns are a direct result of purposeful incorrect movement in life: work, playing, exercising, etc. We learn the wrong way to exercise and we pay the price 3-5 years later with an aching shoulder or painful knees. We slouch in our chairs and sit 1 inch away from a computer monitor and we suffer from stiff necks and aggravated cervical discs. Then, in a quest to better ourselves, we hit the gym and perform these exercises we learned in "muscle magazines" and further damage our posture and muscle-joint relationships. The moral of my story? Be aware...be more aware of your body more-so than your therapist. Be aware of how you lift, be aware of how you sit, walk, and sleep. Find sources that preach correct exercise strategies and programming and learn how to NOT exacerbate muscle imbalances so compensatory movement patterns can be corrected."

Rob Pilger:

"Good question, both seem to go hand in hand.. muscle imbalance, poor motor learning, or recovering from a former injury, or never having that pain issue looked at and it still hurts, compensation occurs.

An example of muscle imbalance in the pelvis, and compensation while in motion, look at a compensated trendelenburg, when you lift the leg, the body bends to compensate for the weak glute medius. Muscle imbalances can be sports induced, (also sport can cause compensatory patterns on the same hand..) ergonomically induced, training faulty movement patters (ex. improper scapula humeral rhythm) so on. As stated above, having a pain issue can cause you to move different, compensate, "guarding" can occur, and you begin to have a mess. Yes, we can list many scenarios.The prevention, or solution, would be to strive to have a body in balance. Seek optimal muscle length tension, ideal joint ROM. Teach proper movement patterns, sporting technique, proper lifting, proper ergonomics, ideal posture, address pain issues, etc.

Adhering to this would go along ways to even worrying about both."

Chris Blake:

"Not to generalize the masses of human nature, but most people choose the path of least resistance especially when it comes to posture. If you ever get a chance to see a baby in it's beginning of development in movement the baby develops neck strength to support the head first. Then when you place a baby on it's stomach the first movement pattern that the baby develops is........ Extension. The baby will lift it's head first (into extension) and then will try to get up on it's hands and then eventually knees. One of the things that I found through having a baby was when you are holding it, the baby will all of a sudden fully extend out like they want to free fall off of you and onto the floor. Luckily I didn't drop my son once I realised what he was doing, but after talking to a group of new parents they also found the same thing happening.

Anyways, our innate ability is to extend. But somewhere along the line people begin to slouch (based on the fact that most of our lives involve sitting and/or doing things in front of us i.e. eating, driving, typing, playing basketball, bench pressing, etc....). Fuel poor posture with school kids carrying the weight of their locker in their book bags on their backs and now we have postural issues that will carry with them the rest of their lives. Once poor posture is established to be the norm for the individual, the nervous system will accomidate this slow developing shift and certain muscle imbalances take place. The next time you get a chance to watch a womens college basketball or high school girls basketball game check out the athletes' postures. Hyperextended knees, excessive lordotic curviture in their backs, Rounded shoulders projecting forward, forward head posture.....it's all there. Is there any wonder why the females are tearing their ACL's at an epidemic rate? Head and shoulders placed forward with a hyperlordotic curve in the back shifts the center of gravity forward placing undue stress on structures that were not designed to handle such stresses.

So how do we correct the train tracks before it becomes a train wreck? Take your clients through what good posture feels like (you can tell them to stand up straight, but if they have never felt what straight is they won't understand), stretch muscles in the front (Pec major and minor), stretch the hip flexors (iliopsoas, rectus femoris), and stretch the calves (gastroc and soleus). Then strengthen the back (lots and lots of rows), strengthen the abdominals (TVA, Obliques, Upper Rectus), strengthen the Glutes and hamstrings. Stretch the tight areas, and strengthen the weak. In essence, you have to create an imbalance to help correct an imbalance. So to recap; faulty movement patterns create and reinforce muscle imbalances which in turn create compensatory movement patterns."

Steve Payne:

"I am under the distinct belief that the muscular imbalance must be the first "deformity" of the physique, followed by the compensatory movement patterns. The reason is simple; we spend so much time doing the things that cause the imbalance in the first place. Sitting for inordinate amounts of time in a slouched position, hunched at the computer, etc. It's not that the body isn't functioning improperly for movement patterns, rather it's functioning properly for the non-movement patterns it has learned. The body, through these un-natural habits, "learns" to perform well in them, which causes dysfunction in exercise and otherwise "normal" movement patterns and activities. All of these things contribute to the compensatory movements that must be addressed in order to allow free and improved movement patterns outside the workplace, home and other non-movement environments, like air travel, car rides, etc. Any attempt at correcting these imbalances, without spending a good amount of daily time in that correction phase, does little for the correction process.

Do Muscle Imbalances Cause Compensatory Movement Patterns or Visa-versa?
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Journal of a Goliathus Breeder - Part 3 of 3 - Larva Care

Larva care: As with all beetles, Goliathus larva undergoes 3 distinct instars: L1, L2 and L3. This can described as the shedding of the old skin. The process starts with the larva refusing to eat for a few days. The shedding begins with a split at the top of its head capsule and eventually splitting the capsule in half. The new instar wiggles its way out of the capsule, leaving its old skin behind. Once shed, the new head capsule is completely white and has not had a chance to harden yet. Handling the larva should be minimized. Within a few hours, the head capsule will turn to an orangey-red, brown and finally black. (Note: Although not verified by myself, some breeders leave the shed skin in the container. The disappearance of the old skin either suggests that it decomposes rapidly or is consumed by the larva, which is a normal behavior in the animal kingdom. )

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Newly hatched Goliathus larvae can be kept in a good quality substrate (80% leaf, 20% wood). However, it is best to switch to a protein diet after a week or two in order to obtain larger larvae. Until the next necessary substrate change, the L1 larva can be kept in that substrate for a smoother dietary transition (see Substrate section below). Young larvae (egg-L1) are kept in empty pill containers to observe their development and are transferred to lure boxes (see Keeping and feeding your larvae below) at L2. Once the larva has reached L3, sandwich containers (cheaply available at your local dollar store) are used to rear them. Rubber bands should be used at this point since a large L3 larva can easily lift the lid of the container and escape. You should change the substrate if it starts smelling badly, have mite problems or filled with larva frass (poop). Since an older Goliathus larva does not consume the substrate it lives in, using a smallest possible container is recommend. However, the larva's living comfort should not be neglected and the larva should still be able to turn around in the container. A smaller container allows the larva to find its protein pellet faster and allows less waste. Once the larva becomes L3, sexing the larva is similar to other Cetonidae species.

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I find it extremely fascinating that a larva the size of a Goliathus can reach its maximum size in the span of 6 months before it is ready to pupate. The biggest larva that I was able to rear weighted in at 94 g. which yielded a male of about 90mm. This suggests that the Goliathus larva can grow over 100g since adult males can reach 110mm. You can admire this exploit when you breed other giant beetles such as Dynastes Hercules and Megasomas. Larva development can be as slow as 3 years for some of these species.

Diet: Unlike other Cetonidae species, Goliathus larvae need a high protein diet to grow to maximum size. It is theorize that Goliathus larvae are carnivorous in the wild because a physical difference can be seen between Goliathus and other Cetonidae species. The leg extremity of the Goliathus larva has developed a more pronounced talon than other species which suggest a predacious lifestyle. It may well in fact prey upon other invertebrates found in its environment. I have experimented with most pet foods available on the market and my conclusion for the ideal food that can be given to your larva is fish food flakes and semi-moist cat/dog food. Anything else that is of hard consistency (dog, cat, fish, ferret) is rejected. The food can be deposited on the surface of the substrate and the larva will come to the surface and pull down the flake/pellet. Uneaten food should be removed after a few days as it may attract mites and spoil your substrate.

Fish Flakes: I feed my larvae fish flakes until they reach the last instar. Once L3 stage has been reached, their appetites are enormous. A fish flake diet becomes exorbitant due to its cost. However, fish flakes have the highest protein content of all pet food, some containing as high as 75% crude protein. If you can afford to feed them with flakes throughout their development, it would be the best.

Cannibalistic behavior: It is well documented that Goliathus larvae have a tendency to snack on their siblings. As such, I wanted to know how much truth there was behind it - and also the fact that I was running out of space due to keeping each larva in individual container. So I decided to place 10 newly hatched L1 larvae in a 1 L. container and waited for the result. I continued their daily feeding of protein additive during that time. After two weeks, I decided to verify their development. I observed that more than 50% of the larvae had missing limbs and/or had completely disappeared. Another observation: there were always one or two extra plump larvae amongst the survivors. After this experiment, I decided to slow down on my breeding program and I individually separated each larva.

Techniques to succeed a large breeding program: It was fine and dandy to pamper your larvae on a daily basis when you have a dozen of them, even to the point of giving them individual care. I would sit down for several minutes after adding my protein pellet and waited for the larva come to the surface to grab and pull it under the substrate: that was the first year. (I would often joke that would I sing lullabies to them before going to bed.) For the second generation, I was literally overwhelmed by the quantity of larvae I was raising. So much so that I had to stop the females from ovipositing more eggs. I was getting close to achieving over one hundred larvae. In order to be able to manage my feeding/substrate change schedule (and have a normal life), I came up with as much a "lazy-man" method as possible. I realized that it was quickly become a chore instead of a passion as I was easily spending 45-60 minutes every day on the upkeep of my Goliathus - and that's after coming back from a regular job, help make supper and putting the kids to bed!

Substrate: Unless you live in Japan where beetle substrate can be bought at your local department store, you have no other choice then to make your own. You have to go in the forest and collect large quantity of dead tree leafs. Even harder is searching the forest floor for fallen tree logs with the proper decay level. And let's not forget about the strange looks that passers-by give you. (Picture this: Searching a forested area near to a cemetery and I walk out of the woods with a bag on my back and a shovel in my hand...) Once you have the raw ingredients, you have to take the time to process it and shred it to proper consistency. Having said this, your homemade substrate can sometimes be more valuable than the larva itself. So as to facilitate my Goliathus rearing method, I no longer use homemade substrate after the first substrate change. Once the larva has adapted to consume pet food (late L1), it is no longer necessary to use leaf compost because it no longer eats it. This saves you hours of labor to manufacture your substrate. I replace the substrate with 100% peat moss (also known as sphagnum moss) which can be purchased cheaply at your local garden center. Peat moss is basically decomposing sphagnum moss found in bogs and peat lands. It is completely sterile as it is sold in bails of various sizes and with 0% humidity. A light humidification is required before using it for your larvae. A pressure pump vaporizer will humidify your substrate uniformly. Pouring water directly into the peat moss to mix will create clusters of wet peat moss. Once the moisture level is achieved, you should have a very light and well aerated substrate. It is cheap, easy access and makes an ideal substrate for your Goliathus.

Keeping and feeding your larvae: Another time consuming activity is the feeding period. This entails gathering all the containers, opening each individual lid, placing your pet food inside, closing the lid and placing all the containers back. Assuming it takes 2 minutes each, the time spent on feeding each of your larva is considerable when you feed a large population. And that is not considering substrate change when it has been soiled by uneaten food or mites. You can easily add another 2-3 minutes to each larva. I know this sound very much like micro-management but you have to look at the larger picture when rearing a large population. As a result, I have been using transparent lure box. The advantage is that each box has a dozen separated compartments. It saves a considerable amount of time that you have access to a dozen (or more) larvae with the flip of a lid. The time that it took to feed one larva, I can now feed a dozen or more. This technique is no longer cost efficient for the larger L3 larvae due to the higher cost of the lure box.

Getting Ready for Pupation: Raising your larvae to maximum size is the easy part of Goliathus breeding. The majority of failures are caused by the larva's inability to successfully build its pupal cell. Special attention from the breeder is required to able to read the first sign of readiness to pupate.

These are:

The larva will stop eating. Look for uneaten and moldy food. The larva will gain a slight yellowish taint, not as pronounced as Dynastidae larvae however. Pay attention to its color. The larva will be in constant movement (I often use the analogy of a devil in Holy water) and will try to escape its container at all cost. You can compare this behavior to a more docile larva which is still in development. Keep all your larva containers in a larger plastic box and allow them to "escape" its individual container. The larva should be able to lift the lid by itself. When you encounter a larva that is roaming inside the larger box, it's probably looking to pupate. They move so much that I sometime cannot have a proper weight reading. The larva will be extremely aggressive and will try to bite you when held. Hold the larva with your fingers and it will "snap" back in a C-shape in the hope of biting you. The larva will lose up to 10% of its weight. A digital weight scale is a good tool to monitor its development. As soon as the larva starts losing weight, you can put it under observation. However you must weight your larva on a regular basis and keep a weight chart for comparison. The larva will start crawling on its back on the surface for several weeks, a behavior called the "Wandering Phase." If kept in a small container; the substrate will be completely compacted due to the constant movement of the larva. If not transferred rapidly at this point, the larva may die from exhaustion. The larva's body will lose some of its firmness. With experience you will be able to recognize the firmness of a larva in development and one that is ready to pupate. I believe that all the signs listed above (when combined) should allow a breeder to properly read the behavior that a larva is ready to pupate.

Note: There is nothing more frustrating than to lose a larva just before it's ready to pupate (such as section #6 above). That is countless of hours wasted! However, if you encounter a larva that is completely flaccid, it may or may not be dead yet. You should burry the larva in fresh substrate and wait 24 hours. It is my experience that if the stress level was not lethal, the larva will slowly reanimate and regain its firmness within the hours. If it is too late, your dead larva will start smelling. I have discovered this behavior after finding a healthy larva in my waste basket that I thought was dead.

Once you have a larva that is ready to pupate, you must transfer it to another container that is only used for pupation. I have experimented with many container sizes (starting with a single larva in a 30 L. bucket at the beginning) and I have narrowed it down to a plastic shoe box which is the most economic in terms of space. As pointed out earlier, a wandering larva will be in constant movement and a dire need to escape whatever container it is placed in. A pair of heavy duty rubber band is recommended to hold the lid in place and prevent the larva from lifting the lid and escape. The wandering will last between 2 to 4 weeks and a trench following the circumference of the container will be made on the surface where the larva crawled through. Once its need to wander is satisfied, it will then disappear under the substrate and form its cocoon. To keep track of the duration of that phase, I would "reset" the trench made by the larva with my hand and keep track of the current date. The dates would give me an idea of when the larva was on the surface last. For example, if you "reset" the substrate and the surface is intact after 4 weeks then there is a good chance that the larva has undergone its cell construction. Once the cocoon is built, any handling should be made with extreme care. I have had a bad experience when I dropped a container too hard on a table and the shock would disturb the larva to the point where it would break and leave the cocoon. Of course, the larva would not build another cell and eventually die. In contrast to some Cetonidae species, Goliathus larvae will never create a cell which shares a side with the wall of the container.

The substrate composition that I use for pupation is 20% peat moss and 80% coarse sand. The coarseness of the sand will dictate the sturdiness of the cocoon. When fine sand was used, the cocoon was much more fragile than when built with a coarser one. This mix of peat moss and sand should be filled to the rim of the pupation container. The great majority of the cells will be created near the bottom of your container. After 4 weeks on inactivity where no further sign of wandering is seen, you can take out pupa cell if needed (for example, needing the pupation container for another larva). This can be done by very gently scooping out the substrate until your fingers feel a hard crust. This will be the pupa cell. Once the cocoon is located, you can work around the cell until it is free from the substrate. Place the cell facing the same orientation as originally found in another container which will hold all your pupal cells until their emergence. This holding container should have a layer of the sand-peat moss mix at the bottom. An important thing is to cover each cocoon with some of its original substrate. This will allow a gradual dehydration of the cocoon starting from its original moisture level. The holding container should never be allowed to completely dry up. Adding moist substrate from newly added cells may be enough to keep the container moist until it is full; at which point, slight misting may be required. The ideal situation would be to allow the pupa to complete its metamorphosis in its original pupation container as this will create the least amount of stress to the cell. This may not be a possibility when you have a large population of larvae.

Humidity level: The humidity level necessitates a paragraph of its own as it is the number one cause of failure experienced by Goliathus breeders (including myself). A substrate which is too dry will discourage the larva from building its cocoon. The opposite is no good either as the larva/pupa may die inside its cocoon. The proper substrate humidity is achieved when substrate particles stain your fingers when rubbed together but not damp enough to make clumps and stick together. As a general rule, you are safer on the drier side than on the damper side. No one knows for sure the reason why the Goliathus pupa is so sensitive to the moisture level. One hypothesis is that the pupa expects the same condition encountered in the wilderness. The adults emerge and lay their eggs during the rainy season and the larvae continue their development until the dry season arrives. At which point, the larvae create their cocoons. As the ambient moisture dissipates, the cocoon hardens gradually and remains dormant until the next rainy season arrives and the cycle continues. At the next rainy season, the imago is stimulated to emerge with the return of a higher humidity. Once the larva has become a pupa, it will take about 3-4 months to become an imago. The imago will lie dormant for another 3-4 months in its pupal cell before it becomes active. When you come near the final few months, you can stimulate the beetle to emerge from its dormancy by placing the cell back to a larva substrate (80% leaf, 20% wood) with a moisture level appropriate for larva care. You can help the beetle a little bit by removing a section of the cell facing the head of the beetle. However, if you do so, you must burry the cell with the beetle at the bottom of your tank. An imago that is not 100% active yet may crawl out of its cell and flip over and die from exhaustion. The female imagos are usually the first to emerge due to their smaller sizes. Once the beetle is capable of locomotion and can eat by itself then you can have successfully completed your cycle.

Similarity (and difference) between the species: My personal experience has been with 4 different species of Goliathus: Goliathus goliatus, Goliatus orientalis, Goliathus regius and Goliathus cacicus. The first 3 species are pretty much kept the same way as described in this article. However for some unknown reason, my Goliathus orientalis did not live very long and the males never emerged from their dormancy. Goliathus cacicus, still remains a mystery. Although kept in the same condition as the other species, I have never achieved the same growth as for my other species. The maximum size for a male larva was about 40g. That is the size of a Mecynorrhina male. A large Goliathus cacicus male can attain 10 cm. Something is missing in the diet or rearing condition and further experiments will be required. As for Goliathus albosignatus, I have communicated with some breeders who have it in their breeding. Due to their smaller sizes (maximum larval weight of 30g.), it takes about half the time to complete the cycle (L1-start of pupation: 3-4 moths; pupation: 4-5 months; dormancy: 1-2 months). The rearing requirement is similar to Goliathus goliatus.

In conclusion, I consider myself extremely lucky to have had the opportunity to rear these incredible creatures from egg to imago form. Very few people have had the chance to see these beetles live, let alone handle them. Whether I continue my Goliathus breeding or not (due to the lack of time), I sincerely hope other breeders can find this article helpful. Little is known about the ecology of the Goliathus and the information we know about them was found because of a handful of dedicated breeders. As incredibly rewarding as it may be, I would not recommend the breeding of Goliathus to a novice. Other smaller species such as Mecynorrhina or Chelorrhina have similar but simpler requirements.

Journal of a Goliathus Breeder - Part 3 of 3 - Larva Care
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